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Natural Perfumery

With the renewed interest of perfumers, aromatherapists and just plain interested people in Natural Perfumery, this page attempts to give some amount of basic info on Proportions & Notes.

There is a wide range of opinions & many schools of thought on the Creation of Natural Perfumes. The info here is merely a gathering together of generalized info, some info that has worked for me, some that I found in books and some during research...

You can also read about some of my previous perfumes and you can see Perfumes now available

What are Natural Perfumes?

::Perfumes which may be oil-based or alcohol-based - that use only pure Essential Oils , Absolutes, Resins, Tinctures, & other natural botanical material in their creation.
:: They use no synthetics so individuals sensitive to chemicals may safely use them..
:: Are unique to the wearer unlike synthetics which smell the same on any number of wearers
:: Are mostly short-lived as compared to synthetic perfumes which use chemicals to fix them to the skin- you'd have to dab these on often as they may not possess the strong chemical nature of synthetics to stay on your body, clothes, before you enter a room or after you leave it.. Only very few aromas linger for long.
This has the benefit of not overpowering the "audience" and best used for intimate moments or just for yourself
:: Most Natural Perfumes are subtle and stay only the distance of your personal space so only someone close can experience

Links to a wealth of info from
Aromatherapy to Perfumery

www.essentiallyoils.com/Newsletter
www.whitelotusaromatics.com

Perfume Preparation

Different people have their own unique procedures. Heres one from a noted perfumer.

Top (head) - about 5-20% of blend
Middle (heart) 50-80%
Base (drydown) 5-10% , max 20%

Mix the amount of oils chosen in a dark bottle and leave it alone for a couple of days. Add alcohol after that, agitate or turn bottle upside down every 12 hours. Most Perfumes take about 2-3 weeks to develop, some even longer. A month is a good time to evaluate your perfume.
Add more Essential oil if you want to adjust after 2 weeks when the alcohol blend will mature and you have an idea on it.

Tips
Thick resinous oils like Cocoa , Labdanum, etc must be diluted with Modifier till liquid before adding to blends- otherwise will not mix fully.
Do not mix jojoba + alcohol - to best of my knowledge
Test on a Perfumer strip or filter paper to see how the fragrance develops over time.
Weather conditions, skin etc. make changes to the effect of Natural Perfumes

Heres a general proportion for using Essential Oils in Carriers.
This will vary depending on the type of material you have at hand

Type of Blend	% of Essential Oil	Carrier
Perfume	15-30%	Alcohol
Eau de Toilette (EDT)	4-8%	1/3 alcohol + 2/3 water
Massage/bath	1-2%	Vegetable oil
Room sprays	1%	Distilled water
Body Mists, Facial Toners	½- 1%	Distilled water
Linen sprays, stationery sprays	2%	Distilled water

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PERFUMERY INFO: Notes & Scent Intensity
45 ESSENTIAL OILS/ABSOLUTES


Ambrette, Musk, Note- Middle- Top Scent Intensity 3	Angelica, Note- Middle- Top Scent Intensity 4	Basil Note- Middle- Top Scent Intensity 4
Bay Note- Middle- Top Scent Intensity 3	Benzoin, Note- Base Scent Intensity 4	Bergamot, Note- Top Scent Intensity 2
Cardamom Note- Middle Scent Intensity 4	Carrot Seed Note- Middle Scent Intensity 2	Cedarwood, Note- Base Scent Intensity 3
German Chamomile Note- Middle Scent Intensity 4	Roman Chamomile Note- Middle Scent Intensity 4	Cinnamon Note- Middle Scent Intensity 5
Clary Sage, Note- Middle-base Scent Intensity 3	Coriander, Note- Middle Scent Intensity 3	Fir, Note- Middle Scent Intensity 2
Frankincense, Note- base Scent Intensity 3	Geranium Note- Middle Scent Intensity 3	Ginger Note- Middle Scent Intensity 4
GingerLily root Note- base Scent Intensity 3	Grapefruit, Note- Top Scent Intensity 2	Helichrysum Note- Middle Scent Intensity 3
Jasmine, Note- base Scent Intensity 4	Jasmine Sambac (Night) Note- middle -base Scent Intensity 4	Juniper, Note- Middle Scent Intensity 3
Lavender , Note- Middle Scent Intensity 2	Lemon , Note- Top Scent Intensity 2	Lemongrass Note- Top Scent Intensity 4
Lime, Note- Top Scent Intensity 3	Lotus , Pink , Note- Top-Middle Scent Intensity 3	Lotus, Blue Note- middle-base Scent Intensity 4
Marjoram, Note- Middle Scent Intensity 3	Myrrh, Note- Middle-base Scent Intensity 3	Nutmeg, Note- Middle Scent Intensity 4
Neroli , Note- Middle Scent Intensity 3	Orange, Note- Top Scent Intensity 1	Palmarosa, Note- Middle- Top Scent Intensity 3
Patchouli, Note- base Scent Intensity 4	Pepper Note- Middle Scent Intensity 4	Peppermint, Note- Middle Scent Intensity 5
Rose , Note- Middle- base Scent Intensity 3	Rosemary , Note- Middle Scent Intensity 3	Sandalwood , Note- base Scent Intensity 3
Spikenard , Note- base Scent Intensity 5	Vanilla , Note- base Scent Intensity 4	Vetiver , Note- base Scent Intensity 5
Ylang ylang, Note- Middle- base Scent Intensity 5

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